New York's music scene reflects the city's diversity. Traditional and contemporary jazz are still in abundance, with the annual JVC and Knitting Factory's "What Is Jazz?" festivals bringing top international talent to the city every year.

The downtown avant-garde scene and its attendant art noise bands - the most famous being Sonic Youth - continue to influence the area's musicians.

Spoken-word performers, along with the current crop of singer/songwriters, are reviving the Beats' poetry scene. If you travel uptown or to the outer boroughs, you'll find pockets of Brazilian music, West Indian music, reggae and hip-hop, but if you stay downtown, indie rock will fill your ears.

Techno, hip-hop, and electronica - and every hybrid form thereof, from classical violin played over skrawking German beats on the subway to experiments in mixology at your local bar - are everywhere; dance music has finally taken New York and New York is playing it in every place it can.

Despite what the designers on any avenue would like you to believe, New York is not uptight about appearance. In the most expensive, glitzy clubs , however, appearances do matter: acolytes must adhere to the current look, with bouncers guarding the doors against the gauche. But if you just want to dance, there are plenty of more-casual places, especially the city's gay clubs , which often offer more creative music and less hassle.

The sections that follow provide accounts of the cream of current venues. Remember, though, that the music - and especially the club scenes - change continually. Consult weekly listings publications. Excellent freebies include the Village Voice ( www.villagevoice.com ), New York Press ( www.nypress.com ), Homo Xtra ( www.hx.com ) and the monthly club sheet Flyer which all contain detailed club, theater and venue listings for the straight and gay scenes; you can find them in corner self-serve newspaper boxes and music stores. Also on the web and on the ball are Time Out New York ( www.timeoutny.com ) and Citysearch ( www.newyork.citysearch.com )

It may seem a ridiculous and puritanical requirement, but you will undoubtedly be "carded" at the door in New York, so it's imperative to bring your ID (driver's license or passport) with you when you go out. Venues and bars do enforce the legal drinking age of 21 and you must be 18 to enter some music venues.